Cosmetic products are complex mixtures of ingredients with different physical, chemical and functional properties formulated in order to obtain the product with desired activity and quality.
Cosmetic product manufacturers can now move from synthetic to plant- based ingredients (also known as ingredients of plant-origin) in order to increase product purity and quality, with the use of the novel Supercritical Fluid CO2 Extraction (SCFE).
Supercritical Fluid CO2 Extraction is a promising extraction technique that helps replace the organic toxic solvents previously in use in the industry (such as chloroform, dichloromethane, diethyl ether, methanol etc.).
Due to its unique properties, the desirable texture, absence of water or solvent traces, chemical stability and presence of bioactive agents, SCFE extracts can be easily incorporated into cosmetic products. Moreover, SCFE provides a high concentration of bioactive compounds which exhibit many bioactivities in cosmetic products, such as antioxidants, anti-ageing, photo-protective agents or providing antibacterial activity.
SCFE is an environmentally friendly extraction technique based on the application of generally regarded as safe (GRAS) solvent CO2 and high pressures which has many advantages over the conventional processes.
Our team starts by blending principles with practicalities and continue by connecting proven automation process blocks into a holistic solution.
Integration:
Combining scientific and engineering principles with a rich and
diversified practical experience to provide innovative solutions
to challenges.
Modularity:
Automation based on proven process blocks.
Connectivity:
Linking equipment and control systems via PCs and PLCs for
seamless operation.
| Parameters | Level 1 | Level 2 | Level 3 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single Extractor Volume (Litre) | 5 | 25 | 100 / 200 / 300 |
| No. of Extractors | 2 or 3 | 2 or 3 | 2 or 3 |
| Extractors Usage | Single | Single or Series | Single or Series |
| Pressure Bar (PSI) |
350 - 650 (5000 - 9500) |
350 - 650 (5000 - 9500) |
350 - 650 (5000 - 9500) |
| Temperature — °C (°F) |
70 - 110 (158 - 230 |
70 - 110 (158 - 230 |
70 - 110 (158 - 230 |
| CO2 Recirculation | Yes | Yes | Yes |
| Extractor Changeover Valves | Automatic | Automatic | Automatic |
| CO2 Pump Flowrate (LPH) | 40-80 | 150 - 350 | 600 - 3000 |
| Co-Solvent Pump | Yes | Yes | Yes |
| CO2 Feeding & Recovery System | Included | Included | Included |
| Available Certifications |
CE / U / U2 cGMP / ASME BPE / UL / SIL-3 |
CE / U / U2 cGMP / ASME BPE / UL / SIL-3 |
CE / U / U2 cGMP / ASME BPE / UL / SIL-3 |
| Area Required* (m/ft) |
4.88 x 1.37 x 2.44 / 16 x 4.5 x 8 |
8 x 2.8 x 5.6 / 26 x 27 x 18.5 |
8 x 2.8 x 5.6 / 26 x 27 x 18.5 |
| * All systems can be customized based on the factory layout | |||
Most relevant recent studies on the supercritical CO2 extraction of bioactive compounds from plant materials with application in cosmetic products:
| Scientific Name | Common Name | Targeted Compounds | Reported Activities | SCO2 Extraction Conditions |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Copaifera sp. | Copaíba leaf | Essential oils | Antioxidant activities and antimicrobial activity, inhibition tyrosinase | 35 MPa, 75 ◦C, 4 h |
| Synadenium grantii Hook f | Mountain Tea | Euphol, carvacrol, betulin aldehyde, and friedelan-3- one | Antioxidant activity | 15-25 MPa, 40-80 ◦C, 1 h, co-solvent EtOH |
| Sideritis sipylea Boiss | - | n-nonacosane, n-hexacosane and sideridiol, geranyl linalool | Anti-tyrosinase and anti- elastase activity, antioxidant activity | 30 MPa, 35-40 ◦C, 2 h, 25 g CO2/min |
| Prunus avium | Sweet cherry stems | Fatty acid derivatives and terpenes, catechin, chrysin, and Naringenin. | Scavenging peroxyl free radicals | 15 MPa, 40 ◦C, 1 h, co-solvent EtOH |
| Rubus idaeus L | Red raspberry seeds | Ω-3 fatty acids, tocophero | Inhibition of aflatoxin activity | 30 MPa, 40 ◦C, 3 h, 0.194 kg CO2/h, |
| Humulus Lupulus Stramonium | Hops and Datura (leaves and flowers) | Volatile oils, terpenes, terpenoids, fatty acids, and bitter acids | Antibacterial activity against Escherichia coli | 30 MPa, 70 ◦C, 5 h. |
| Camellia sinensis var. assamica | Assam tea seeds | Vegetable oil, phenolic compounds | Low antioxidant activity | 17.5-22.5 MPa, 40-60 ◦C, 110-170 L CO2/ |
| Solidago gigantea Ait. | Goldenrod | Vegetable oil, phenols, chlorophyll | Antibacterial activity Low level of cytotoxicity | 20-80 MPa, 331.15-353.15 K, 3-7 kg CO2/h |
| Curcuma aromatica Salisb | Wild turmeric | Terpenes (p-cymene, β turmerone, curdione) | Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-lipoxygenase activity and antibacterial activity | 10-40 MPa, 40-65 ◦C, 1 h, 2 L CO2/min |
| Artocarpus heterophyllus | Brazilian jackfruit | 13,27-cycloursan-3- one,9,19 cyclolanost-24-en-3-ol and lanostero | Antioxidant activity, antifungal activity | 12-20 MPa, 40-50 ◦C, 150 min, 3.0 and 4.0 mL CO2/ min |
| Capsicum annuum L. | Pepper seed | Vegetable oil (linoleic, palmitic and oleic acids, tocopherol) | Antioxidant activity | 100 MPa, 40 ◦C, 2 h, 0.40 L/min CO2 |
| Rosmarinus officinalis L | Rosemary | α-pinene, camphene, β-pinene, eucalyptol | - | 8.2 MPa, 35 ◦C, 30 min, 100 mL CO2/ min |
| Lavandula luisieri | Spanish lavender | Essential oil, rosmarinic acid, ursolic acid and oleanolic acid | Antimicrobial activity, antioxidant activity | 13 MPa, 30 g CO2/ min |
| Amaranthus spp | Amaranth seed | Squalene, triacylglycerols | Antifungal activity | 7 MPa, 65 ◦C, 18 kg CO2/h |
| Ocimum basilicum L. | Basil | Volatile oils | Antioxidant activities Inhibition of acetylcholinesterase and tyrosinase | 9 MPa, 313 K, 2.5 h, particle size 0.6 mm |
| Lycium ruthenicum Murr | Russian box thorn | Vegetable oil (unsaturated fatty acid, β carotene, tocopherol and total phenolics | Antioxidant activity | 26 MPa, 55 ◦C, 1 h, 80 L CO2/h, particle size: 0.6 mm |
| Picea Abies | Norway spruce bark | Resin acids, stilbens, astringin and piceid, β-sitosterol | Antimicrobial and antifungal activity, antioxidant activity | 48 MPa, 80 ◦C, 1 h, co-solvent EtOH |
| Lavandula Officinalis and Hypericum Perforatum | Lavender and Centaury | 1,2- benzenedicarboxylic acid, n-tetratriacontane, linalool, linalyl acetate | Antimicrobial activity, antioxidant activity | 10 MPa, 40 ◦C |
| Theobroma cacao | Cocoa bean | Phenols | Antioxidant activity | 20 MPa, 50 ◦C, 2 h 11 g CO2/min |
| Dialium cochinchinense Cinnamomum cambodianum, Gardenia angkorensis Pitard, Cananga latifolia Gagnep, and Oroxylum indicum (L.) | Khmer medicinal plants (Pierre, Lecomte, Pitar, Finet, Kurz bark) | Phenols | Antioxidant activity | 10 MPa, 150 ◦C, 4 h, 0.15 mL CO2/min |
| Zea mays | Corn germ | Lecithin | Emulsification activity | 30 MPa, 50 ◦C, 2 h, 25 L CO2/h |
| Sesamum indicum, L. | Sesame seeds | Γ-tocopherol, lignin, polyphenols | Antioxidant activity | 30 MPa, 60 ◦C, 1.5 h, 0.5 L CO2/min |
| Rubus fruticosus | Blackberry seeds | Phytosterols, tocopherol | Antioxidant activity | 30 MPa, 50 ◦C, 2.5 h, 80 kg CO2/h |
| Matricaria chamomilla | Chamomile | Umbelliferone, herniarin | Antioxidant activity | 30 MPa, 40 ◦C, 1.5 h, 2 kg CO2/h |
| Medicago sativa L. | Lucerne or alfalfa | Flavonoids, oleanolic acid equivalents, saponins | Antioxidant activity | 10 MPa, 50 ◦C, 1 h, 4 mL CO2/min, co-solvent EtOH |
| Hippophae rhamnoides L. | Buckthorn | Flavonoids, carotenoid, polyphenol, tocopherol | Antioxidant activity Prolonged oxidant stability | 40 ◦C, 30 MPa, 90 min, 0.5 L CO2/min |
| Eugenia involucrata | Eugenia | Essential oils β-elemene and bicyclogermacrene, vitamin E | Antioxidant activity | 20 MPa, 80 ◦C, 50-80 min |
| Opuntia ficus-indica L. | Prickly pear Cactus, nopal | Vegetable oil (vaccenic acid) | Antioxidant and antibacterial activities | 35 MPa, 40 ◦C, 8.5 kg CO2/h |
| Helichrysum italicum (Roth) G. Don, Angelica archangelica L., Lavandula officinalis L., Salvia officinalis L., Melilotus officinalis L., and Ruta graveolens L | Immortelle, angelica, lavender, sage, sweet clover, rue | Coumarin | Antioxidant activity | 15-30 MPa, 40 ◦C, 1.95 kg CO2/h |
| Rubus idaeus | Raspberry pomace | Phenols, linoleic and linolenic acid/td> | Antioxidant activity | 10-45 MPa, 30-60 ◦C, 30-120 min, 2 L CO2/min |
| Cytisus scoparius L. | Broom | Flavonoids, phenolic acids and phenolic aldehydes | Antioxidant activity | 25 MPa, 45 ◦C, 25 g CO2/min, co-solvent EtOH |
| Moringa oleifera | Moringa | Vegetable oil | Antioxidant activity | -40 MPa, 2-35 ◦C, 5 h 20 kg CO2/h |
| Zea mays | Corn germ | Lecithin | Emulsification activity | 30 MPa, 50 ◦C, 2 h, 25 L CO2/h |
| Coffea canephora L. | Spent coffee bean | Vegetable oil | Sunscreen water resistance activity, photoprotective activity | 25 MPa, 55 ◦C, 15 kg CO2/h, 1 h |
| Helichrysum italicum | Immortelle | Tremetone derivatives, squalene | - | 8-22 MPa, 36-64 ◦C, 1.94 kg CO2/h |
| Helichrysum italicum (Roth) | Immortelle | Scopoletin | Antioxidant activity | 7.93-22.07 MPa, 35.86-64.14 ◦C, 90 min, 1.94 kg CO2/h |
| Copaifera sp | Copaíba | Volatile oils | Antioxidant activity, anti- inflammatory and neuroprotective effects | 10-30 MPa, 40-60 ◦C, 0.000833 kg CO2/s |
| Vitis vinifera | Grape marc | Polyphenols | Antioxidant activity | 8 MPa, 20-80 ◦C, 4-10 min, 6 kg CO2/ h |
| Lippia sidoides Cham | Pepper rosmarin seeds | Polyphenols, flavonoids | Antioxidant activity | 40 MPa, 60 ◦C, 1.5 L CO2/min |
| Oryza sativa L. | Rice bran | Linoleic acid, oryzanol,policosanol, and tocotrienol | 5-alpha-reductase inhibition | 32 ◦C and 27 MPa, 240 min, 135 g CO2/ min |
| Calendula officinalis | Marigold | Pentacyclic triterpene monols, diols, monoester faradiol, diester myristic, palmitic and lauric acids | Skin and wound healing, antimicrobial activity | - |
| Hevea Brasiliensis | Rubber seeds oil | α-linolenic acid | Moisturizing and stability in cosmetic products | 60 ◦C, 30 MPa, 4 mL CO2/min |
| Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa | Hemp seed | Linoleic acid, γ-linolenic, and α-linolenic | Moisturizing | 30 and 40 MPa, 40, 60 and 80 ◦C |
| Sesamum indicum L. | Sesame seed | Oleic linoleic, palmitic and stearic acid | Moisturizing | 50 ◦C, 350 bar, 2 mL CO2/min |
| Triticum aestivum L. | Wheat kernel | Palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid | Moisturizing | 200-350 bar, 40-60 ◦C, 15-25 L CO2/h |
| Vitis vinifera L. | Grape seed oil | Oleic and linoleic acids and antioxidant-rich compounds | Moisturizing | 28-550 bar, 40 ◦C |
| Daucus carrota L. | Carrot fruit | Carotol, geranyl acetate,β-caryophyllene, daucol, essential oil | Skin disorders, e.g. burns and furuncles | 10 MPa, 40 ◦C |
| Borago officinalis L. | Borage seed oil | Free fatty acids: palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic acid, γ-linolenic acid | Skin wounds healing, moisturizing | 200 and 300 bar, 40-60 ◦C, 0.20 kg CO2/h |
| Oenothere biennis L. | Evening primrose | Γ-linolenic acid | Skin wounds healing, moisturizing | 200 and 300 bar, 40 and 60 ◦C, 0.17 kg CO2/h |
| Mangifera indica | Mango leaves | Phenolic compounds | Anti-aging activity | 25 MPa, 45 ◦C, 1 h, 3.96 kg CO2/s |
| Prinus dulcis | Almond fruits | Tochopherol, vegetable oil | Moisturizing | 420 bar, 50 ◦C, 2-3 h, 30 kg CO2,/h |
